In the world of advertising [and RV sales], there’s no such thing as a lie. There’s only expedient exaggeration. – Roger Thornhill
These pages will detail some of the many modifications to our Class-B vans. Our first van was a very well-built Great West Van – Legend, which we traveled with for 10 years. Next (Gal_1.0) was a 2021 on a 2019 Mercedes Sprinter 170 chassis and was ordered new from the manufacturer. We made a number of changes and improvements to customize it to meet our needs. Unfortunately, faulty wiring resulted in an electrical fire that totaled our van and our belongings. With prices skyrocketing and no help from the manufacturer, we opted for a gently used 2021 on a 2020 chassis.
Every time we take our van out, we think of new modifications, and the list keeps growing. Check back from time to time to see what the latest changes are.
Special Order
With some manufacturers, you may be able to request custom features when ordering a new coach. The downside is that it may take much longer to receive delivery, and you may still not get what you expected. You are also at risk of losing your deposit if anything unexpected happens or you change your mind.
Our suggestion: Do not special order an RV unless you are willing to wait many, many months. If you are handy and comfortable making mods, buy a coach that you are able to see, touch, and inspect before handing over any money. If you are handy, you can make minor repairs and customize it yourself. If you are not handy, RV Forums can help, and you may find reliable shops that can customize it for you.
BTW – please read the disclaimer below before attempting any repairs or modifications.
Page Contents:
Modification #1 – Rattles
Repairs begin – The Long List
Modification – Debadging Side Step
Build – Overhead Power Panel
NEW Install – Rearview Mirror Camera
Replacement – Magnetic Screen
Modification – Refrigerator
Modification – Kitchen Area
Modification – Countertop Paint
Modification – Truma Heat Flapper Vent
Build – Closet Drawers
Modification – Lagun Table Post
Replacement – Lagun Table Handles
Modification – Table storage Rack
Modification – Shoe Storage Box #1
Modification – Adjustable Bed
Modification – Under Bed Drawers
Modification – Rear External Shower
Modification – Rear Doors Privacy Area
Modification – Cable Crimp Lugs
Purchase – Level Mate Pro
Install – Head Bumper
NEW Install – Wire Chase Rope
Install – Stereo Speakers
Modification – Sliding Door
Build – Overhead Shelf
Modification – Extra Rear Cabinet Storage
Modification – Bathroom Light
Replacement – Touch Lights
NEW-Modification – Bathroom Exhaust Fan
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TIP#001: Rattles – While driving our Galleria (Gal_1.0) RV home from the dealer after picking it up, we looked at each other and just started laughing. This brand new RV was considerably noisier than our old Great West Van. Bathroom doors were rattling, cabinets were shaking, and my wife got up to track down where all the noises were coming from. The very first stop on the way home was to buy stick-on felt pads to quiet the bathroom doors. The rubber dots the manufacturer used on the cabinets didn’t stay on very well, so we replaced them as well.
Update: After our first long trip of 7,700 miles with Gal_2.0, we found the build quality even worse than the previous van. The cabinets may appear nice, but they are not built very robustly. Screws holding the upper cabinets came loose, paneling was not fastened and bulging, and trim was coming loose. Behind the kitchen counter was a piece of particle board with a strip of felt held down by two screws. (Gal_1.0 had upholstery back there.) Switches were labeled wrong, and plumbing needs to be corrected. Fortunately, we can fix it. That’s why we are here: to help you with tips & tricks.
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The Long List: The (Gal_1.0) walk-through inspection at the dealership generated a long list of items to be fixed that the manufacturer’s quality control inspection missed. Originally, I had listed the problems here, but it took up a lot of page space. So here are just a few: bed cushion missing, problems with the Truma hot water, TV antenna, and awning not working. We refused delivery until these things were fixed. After one month, the bed cushion showed up, but nothing else got fixed. We finally gave in and took delivery to handle all the repairs ourselves. The awning control module was melted, and the replacement estimate was 6 months since this “wasn’t a critical item.” The dealership told us the Truma wasn’t supposed to make hot water, or you could burn yourself. That’s when we realized we were on our own, and so the repairs begin….
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TIP#264: Debadge Step – Our replacement van had a 1/2-inch-thick slab of plastic with the manufacturer’s name carved into it. It was warped, wavy, and totally unnecessary. It had to go. Screw holes were plugged with black caulk.
(2021-12-21)
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Overhead Power Panel
TIP#224: Overhead Module – Instead of running dash-cam wires down to dash sockets, we added an overhead power panel. The panel is 3D printed and has a twin USB connector, a voltage display, and a cigarette lighter-type socket. Power is tapped from the chassis battery and is always hot (as opposed to using ignition power). Three lighted switches control the power for each item individually.
For the adventurous, to gain access behind the sprinter overhead module, there are 2 spring-loaded latches and a centered release (bottom of picture). Insert a flat blade between the outer ring and the module to release the latches, and it will swing down.
To reach the fuse/relay block underneath the passenger foot panel, we routed the power wires down the A-pillar. Two press-in clips that enable the panel to be removed and a single screw located behind the upper “Air Bag” plate hold the A-pillar trim cover in place.
2022-10-06
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TIP#292: Rearview Mirror Camera – Looking out the back windows doesn’t provide much of a view. Especially if we want to check on our bikes. We decided to test out a rearview mirror camera system. It straps on over your existing mirror and has wired rear camera that can be installed inside or outside.
Also included is a separate front camera. Other brands mount the front camera on the mirror which doesn’t work very well due to the large camera module on the Sprinter windshield.
(We already had a higher resolution dash cam so didn’t install the front camera.)
The wiring is long enough to reach from the mirror to the back of the van. If you want to mount it externally, you will need to run the wire through the van body. (We chose to mount the camera inside on the rear window.)
The mirror is powered by 12-volts DC from a cigarette lighter style plug. We added a 3-D printed upper power panel to provide a voltage display module, a 12-VDC and USB outlets to power our dash cam. See TIP#224.
The wires were pulled through the driver’s side wire chase. See TIP#291
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TIP#263: Magnetic Screen Door– We removed the screen door post behind the passenger seat to provide more seat movement. The pull-out screen is not easy to use, especially if your hands are full. A magnetic screen solves several issues. Plenty of seat travel, hands-free operation, no difficult latching mechanism. We also installed a new handle on the B-Pillar.
Another feature of our mag-screen is that it is mounted with Velcro, meaning it is completely removable when not needed. Contact us if you’d like more information.
2022-09-15
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Refrigerator
The refrigerator/freezer in our RV is a 12-volt Nova Cool 7300. It has two compressors, one for the freezer (1.7 cu ft) and one for the refrigerator (6.8 cu ft), each drawing roughly 30 watts when running. For more information on the Nova Cool, see the Refrigerator Page.
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Kitchen Area
This picture has a number of items. The dehumidifier is a necessary item for storage in Florida. The sink cover is a round cutting board, and a large cutting board protects the induction cooktop. The large one can double as a transport tray or be placed on top of an open drawer for added counter space and an eating table.
TIP#025: Blackout – The strip of black window film provides privacy without the need to pull the shade all the way down behind the counter top.
TIP#125: Stovetop Switch – We replaced the power outlet with a combination outlet and switch to cut power to the induction cooktop. That beeping every time you touched the stovetop was very annoying.
TIP#125: UPDATE – A very simple way to add the power switch for the induction cooktop is to use a switch cord. The cord plugs into the wall, and the cooktop plugs into the cord. No major wiring is needed. Connect the cord to the switch side, remove the metal tab bridge, and wire power to the receptacle side.
TIP#067: Cutting Board – 1-16-2022 UPDATE: For Gal_2.0, we built a new multi-function cutting board. It is made from hard maple with strips of Niove (an exotic timber species native to West and Central Africa similar to Teak) and Rosewood (native to Brazil and Honduras and popular in the construction of guitars). The breadboard ends are also Niove. The board is treated with food-grade vegetable-based oil.
As mentioned, it serves as additional counter space, a rear table, protection for the induction cooktop, a rear back splash when cooking to keep grease off the blinds and window, and a carryout tray when eating outside.
TIP#045: Grill Mat – is nice to have for cooking on those grungy campground fire rings. They can also keep the hamburger drippings from flaring up. When not using them outside, we use one on the induction cooktop under the pans to keep them from scratching the cooktop.
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TIP#219: Countertop Painting – Our GWVan countertop laminate started coming off, so we stripped it down and painted it with Giani White Diamond kit from Amazon. It looked and worked great. It is a multi-step paint process where you clean and sand the surface.
Step-1 – Roll on the black base primer.
Step-2 – Sponge-dab on the white mineral colors.
Step-3 – Roll on the protective clear coat.
Very simple, and you can dab until you get the look you like best. Instructions can be seen on their website: gianigranite.com
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TIP#246: Truma Flapper Vent – There have been a few incidents of the Truma hot water heater exhausting high heat into the van and, in some cases, melting the heater vent register. This is caused by a “stack effect” or “chimney effect” type of syphon due to an incorrect installation of the heater ductwork. A solution from Truma is to install a flapper vent register that remains closed when the heat is off. The part number is:
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TIP#014: Closet Drawers: We replaced the shelves in the closet with 6 drawers, 3-his, 3-hers. Unlike the cheaper aspen wood drawer boxes used in the coachmen drawers, we built these drawer boxes from hard maple with dovetail joints and high-quality Blum undermount drawer slides. We made drawer fronts but decided to try the drawers without the fronts for a while. If we install the drawer fronts, a narrow closet door would replace the current door. One of the things we disliked was having to open the big door all the way to get to the large bottom drawer. We may make a drawer front on it as well.
Another very strange thing we noticed was that the raised panel doors had the outside raised panel facing to the inside. Maybe to make them look simpler and appear more “Amish”?
UPDATE: After an extensive search on Google, we discovered the raised panel facing inward (“reversed raised panel”) is a Shaker style of cabinetry that has been adopted by Amish woodworkers for its simple appearance. Too bad we can’t reverse them to have the raised panel facing out.
UPDATE: The drawers we built were able to be salvaged from the previous Galleria but were baked with soot from the electrical fire. They were stripped back to bare wood, refinished, and installed into Gal_2.0
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Lagun Post Mounting: We installed a post mount in the front of our RV and machined an adapter for mounting the Lagun arm and table top.
TIP#164: We also re-drilled the table mounting hole off center to provide more positions for the table top by rotating it.
UPDATE: Once again, we’re ahead in design innovation. The 2022 Galleria now offers an optional front post mount with a Lagun table attached to a slide plate adapter. I like the idea of being able to raise and lower the post, so our next design innovation may incorporate a telescoping post (powered? Yea!).
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TIP#148: Lagun Table Handles are made of plastic and are easily stripped or broken. Amazon sells some metal handles that are perfect replacements.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L5KW3JX/
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TIP#250: Table Storage Rack – We use a modified Lagun table with the front swivel seats and have never liked the system of straps to hold it in place. Our solution is to build a drop-in storage rack located behind the driver’s seat. It is padded to keep it from rattling. We’re waiting on the delivery of a clip-clamp to hold the tube. (2023-03-16)
TIP#251: Spring Clip – Added a spring clip to hold the table post. It is a 2-1/2-inch-diameter clip purchased from Woodcraft. We tried putting a rubberized coating on the clip to keep it from scratching the post, but that didn’t work. Instead, we put a layer of clear packing tape on the clip. Maybe on the post too, if that doesn’t last. 2024/04/02
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TIP#259: Shoe Storage Box #1 – Finding a place to put dirty shoes has always been a puzzle. We like putting them on the sliding door step, but they tend to fall out. The open bottom and removable dividers make cleaning a little easier.
This is one idea for the shoes, socks, and broom: I’m considering testing a vertical version.
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TIP#252: Adjustable ZeroG Bed – Inspired by the great folks at Advanced RV and their beautiful designs, we decided it was time to build a new bed for Gal_2.0. We planned on purchasing an adjustable platform bed system from ZzzenSleep and hacking it to fit the van. For more information, click the link: Adjustable Bed.
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TIP#257: Under Bed Drawers
(Gal_1.0) We built a 48-inch-long pull-out storage drawer under the Ergo-style (twin with center cushion) bed. The drawer and center bed cushion can be easily removed, providing an open isle for hauling gear. (Yenuo Heavy Duty Full Extension drawer slides – Amazon)
The Velcro cable/hose wraps are Heavy Duty Wrap-It Storage Straps – Amazon.
(Gal_2.0) One additional task with the new adjustable bed design was to recover and refinish the 4-foot-long rear drawer damaged by the fire in Gal_1.0. A new case was constructed to incorporate a second drawer, making use of the extra storage height afforded by the updated bed design. The drawer case was bolted to the floor using the holes from the original bed mounting. The cutouts in the case are an attempt to save some weight, however small. The drawer boxes are 18″w x 8″h x 48″ long. Drawer slides are full-extension, locking slides with a 180-lb. capacity.
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TIP#253: Rear Shower
While the original bed was out, we took the opportunity to run a pair of PEX water lines (hot and cold) from under the sink to the passenger-side rear screen post. I’ve always liked the idea of a rear shower, which would offer a little more privacy than the side shower. Hanging a tarp or large towel between the open rear doors creates a nice little shower space when boondocking.
Our van came with a water pump override switch in the driver’s side rear screen post. I thought someday this could come in handy if I ever built a rear shower.
For additional information, click link: Rear Shower
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Tip#258: Rear Doors Privacy Area – When creating a private space between the back doors, there are numerous options. A large beach towel, a small tarp, or, in this case, a thick emergency foil blanket. The back cover can be held in place by a variety of methods. As shown here, a pair of spring clips hold the top portion in place while round magnets hold the bottom portion.
TIP#262: Barn Door Cover – Since adding a rear shower, we’ve been prototyping rear barn door ideas. The side shower is adequate but lacks a simple way to create some privacy. There are barn door covers on the web, but they have been sold out for many months and aren’t that difficult to make.
This initial prototype was constructed from Harbor Freight Paint Tarps sewn on a standard sewing machine. A 4-foot-wide tarp fits above the doors and uses a couple large magnets folded in the material to hold it on the roof. The vertical tarp is 6×9, and the only modification is a couple grommets for use with poles and ropes to use it outstretched as an awning. It is held with a couple spring clips. A couple narrow strips of material and magnets can cover the open hinge area if more privacy is needed. (2023/05/27)
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TIP#010: Touch Lights: We found using the Firefly touch panels to turn the bathroom light and reading lights on/off in the middle of the night was blinding and a bit foolish. We replaced them with touch-controlled, dimmable lights that have a blue nightlight feature. They still retain Firefly on/off power control, but now we have the convenience of touch control and dimming while lying in bed.
UPDATE: The RV manufacturer now installs a cheaper version of reading lights similar to these but still non-dimming. RvXplor – always leading in innovation. 😉
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TIP#076: Cable Crimp Lugs – We chose to replace some of the questionable connections after reading that some users had issues with the cable crimp lugs. 2-5-2022
Tinned copper lugs were used for the new terminals, which were crimped with a hydraulic hex crimp tool.
TIP#196: Clear heat-shrink tubing was used to seal the new lugs so that they could be visually inspected in the future. Moisture and corrosion are kept out by an adhesive inside the shrink-wrap tubing.
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TIP#072: Level Mate: One simple add-on was installing LevelMate Pro. Once permanently mounted, it will quickly help you level your RV with a Bluetooth display on your phone or tablet. The display will show you, in inches, how far off-level your RV is so, you can see how many blocks you’ll need. It sure beats the old bubble level.
TIP#077: Level Surface – When defining the initial level setting, use the stovetop surface as the level surface reference. That way, when cooking, your food doesn’t go sliding to one side of the pan. 😉
Bubble Level phone apps are available and work well. Lay your phone down, and they can display the angle or a bubble level.
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TIP#137: Head Bumper: After bumping my head numerous times on the rear cabinets while making mods, I discovered Edge and Corner Cushion. It actually blended in with the wood color and was barely noticeable.
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TIP#291: Wire Chase Rope – Internal wire bundles are located at the roof line and run along each side of the van. To add additional wires, we installed a pull-rope in the driver’s side bundle. This made it easy to add additional speakers and a video rearview mirror camera, and it allowed the Truma AC installers to wire the AC to the control panel Truma controller.
Step 1: Remove the access panels – You will need to remove a couple panels to gain access to the wire chase. The small upper panel behind the driver’s seat is held in place with two screws.
In the upper-rear cabinet, driver’s side, remove the access panel. It is held in place with short stables. I used a small crowbar to hook around the edge of the panel and pull open one side.
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Step 2: Remove the Microwave Oven – The microwave is held in place with six screws through the front decorative surround flange. NOTE: When handling the oven, the flange edges are very sharp, and we wrap them in a packing quilt. Using a two person lift will reduce the chances of banging up the woodwork. Pull the oven out partway and turn to permit access to unplug the power. We placed the oven on a piece of plywood on top of the bed.
Step 3: Wire running poles: We used a couple sections of a “Fiberglass Wire Running Kit” from Harbor Freight to fish into the wire chase. Getting it past bulkheads and other obstructions can be a bit of a challenge. If at first you are unable to get it through, try a different direction. You can feed from the front to the microwave, or microwave to the front. same with microwave-rear or rear to microwave. It took us about an hour to get all the way through.
Step 4: Attach the pull rope to the fish poles and pull it through the wire chase. The pull rope should be more than twice as long as the distance from one end to the other. Place a tape marker in the middle of the rope. That way, you attach the wire you want to install to the middle of the rope and can pull it through, and the rope remains in the chase to be used another day. Coil up the rope and close up the panels.
Reinstall the microwave oven, and don’t forget to plug it in.
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Stereo Speakers: Why-Oh-Why? Anyone would build a van and install an eight-speaker system with only two speakers is beyond me. We added four more speakers.
Why-Oh-Why? Another mystery – why a 4-zone sound system doesn’t have a single master volume control. You have to adjust each zone separately to turn the music volume up or down.
TIP#019: Key Hooks – The command hooks are for quick emergency access to the keys. Sometimes, the only way to open the power sliding door (Gal_1.0) was by using the key fob. Keep them handy. Not a good door design in an emergency. (UPDATE: no power door on the new van, Gal_2.0)
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Sliding Door – Unlike our prior van, our current van does not have a motorized sliding door. With all of the issues we had with the power door on the previous Galleria, we’re definitely OK without the power.
TIP#075: Door Pull – We made a couple of additions to the manually operated door, including installing a pull handle on the inside, mounted towards the rear of the door. This allows you to pull the back of the door in as it closes, eliminating the need to slam the door hard to shut all the way.
TIP#082: Pull Ring was the next item to add to the door lock pin. It was very difficult to get ahold of the lock pin, and the ring makes it much easier to unlock in an emergency. 12-22-2021
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TIP#112: Overhead Shelf – This project adds a shelf over the front seats for storing the window covers, jackets, etc. The paper plans were from Vancillary and included the brackets. We started with 1/2-inch-thick maple plywood but didn’t care for the look of it, so we covered it with a heavy felt-type material. 3M Super 90 contact adhesive was used to bond the material. 01-11-2021
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TIP#206: Extra Storage – With storage at a premium, there are several small compartments that can be used to store seldom-needed items. One of those compartments is on the backside of the upper-rear cabinet. By removing the single screw that holds it closed, the panel can be pried open. The upholstery makes a good hinge, and by removing some of the staples, the particle board can be trimmed to clear the door latch tabs. Some people have used it to store their StarLink equipment or extra paper towels and toilet paper. 2022-01-25
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TIP#212: Touch Light – We installed a dimmable touch light in the shower ceiling, much like we had done in our old RV. It has a blue nightlight that provides a nice nighttime glow. This light also requires that the bathroom light power be turned on from the FireFly panel, just like the dimmable reading lights we have installed. When the light is turned off, the internal memory retains the dim setting. A 3D-printed adapter plate covers the mounting holes from the original light.
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TIP#008: Bathroom Touch Light – One of the ridiculous things about the FireFly control panel is blinding yourself in the middle of the night to turn on the bathroom light. We added a dimmable, touch-controlled LED light bar that is USB-rechargeable. A nice feature of this light is that the base magnetically holds the light, so it can be removed and used by hand to light a cabinet or wherever it is needed.
I liked how the long light bar was removable and could be held by hand. Unfortunately, I would tap it a little too hard in the dark, and it would come crashing down. It fell one time too many, RIP, so we are now trying a small, round, dimmable touch light. It is also removable for charging via USB.
Testing is under way. 🙂
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Installing a Bathroom Exhaust Fan
Galleria owner Randy S. has completed a modification that is still on my to-do list. For some reason, the Galleria does not have a small exhaust fan in the wet bath to remove moisture and…. fumes.
After measuring from the inside and outside several times to be sure of the placement, a pilot hole was drilled through the metal van roof and fiberglass shower enclosure to double-check the positioning. A 6-1/4-inch-diameter hole was cut through the van metal roof and also inside the fiberglass shower enclosure.
Metal edges were primed to prevent any rust.
A ring of 1.4-inch-thick cork was used to create a filler base between the roof ribs for the fan to sit level on. Everything will be sealed with Dycor when finished.
The fan allows installation on up to a 6-inch-thick ceiling, and the excess gets trimmed off as needed.
A 6-1/4 diameter hole saw was used to cut the through-hole.
The fan is powered by the 12-volts DC that was powering the bathroom light. This makes the wire connections easy and powers the fan only when the light is on. The fan requires 2-amp fuse.
The fan is available from Amazon and camping supply stores and is available with a black dome or white exterior dome.
The part numbers are:
MAXXAIR 00-03812B (Black dome)
MAXXAIR 00-03812W (White dome)
MAXXAIR 00-03810W (White dome with a built in light)
In addition to the fan installation, an air intake vent was added low on the bathroom door to create an airflow through the shower when running the fan. This air circulation will dry the bathroom after a shower in 15-30 minutes.
