Modification and Installation of an Adjustable ZeroG bed
TIP#252: Adjustable Bed
We ordered our previous Galleria 24FL (named Gal_1.0) with an Ergo Bed, a twin bed with a center cushion featuring a motorized lift system at the head of the bed, similar to the lift mechanism used on the 24A.
(We built a 4-foot-long drawer that extends from the back.)
Gal_1.0, was totaled by an electrical fire in the 12-volt wiring cabinet. Like so many big companies these days, manufacturers’ claims to “make things right” quickly evaporated. It’s a long story.
We finally ended up purchasing a used 24FL and decided that ‘someday’ we would design a “Super Bed” to replace the powered sofa.
Inspired by the great folks at Advanced RV and their beautiful designs, we decided it was time to build a new bed for Gal_2.0. We planned on purchasing an adjustable platform bed system from ZzzenSleep and hacking it to fit the van. (Platform beds have no legs and are used on top of pedestal frames, such as old waterbed platforms and RV bed platforms. Nothing protrudes under the bed frame for the platform to obstruct.)
The bed in our 2021 24FL was a motorized sofa-style bed. It is a rather uncomfortable design and has seams between cushions, and even the addition of 2 inches of memory foam was only a slight improvement.
We always left the sofa in the bed configuration, topped with the memory foam. With the gaps between cushions and the sinking of memory foam, you would find yourself sleeping in a depression, and if you tried to roll over, you would be sucked back into the divot. To get out of bed, you would have to do the “worm” maneuver to work yourself off the end of the bed.
The new Super Bed would be constructed from a “California Split King” adjustable bed platform. (A Cal split king is two XL twin beds positioned side by side in a king-size bed layout.)
The beds have two heavy-duty linear actuators in each bed; one raises the head and the other raises the legs. Wireless remote controls for each bed power the lift actuators and mattress vibration motors. (In the late 50’s, some hotel beds had “Magic Fingers Bed Relaxation Systems,” where you dropped a coin in the control box. Ya, way before my time!)
The adjustable bed platforms were stripped of their fabric covering, and the frames were modified to fit in the van. The wooden mattress platform was trimmed to fit the two beds side by side.
The wooden platform has a short isle cut away to make getting in and out of bed simpler, and the sides of the bed were contoured to fit the curving walls of the van when the head and foot sections are raised.
A prototype support structure was constructed from 2x4s to provide accurate measurements for building the steel support frame. I could have built the frame with wood, but this was the perfect excuse to borrow a welder and, with the help of YouTube tutorials, teach myself to weld with flux-core wire 🙂
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Steel 1×2 box tubing was used to build the support frame, and the bottoms of each leg had tabs for fastening into the wooden floor.
To make it simple to remove the support frame if necessary, cross bracing is bolted to the supports to allow easy disassembly.
A double pivot hinge connector allows the leg section of the bed to fold over onto the head section for easy access into the wheel well electrical compartments. I did eventually get some shorter bolts. 😉
Installation of the bed platforms. The new bed adds several inches more storage compared to the original bed.
The platform boards were covered with a light-gray low-pile carpet, which is glued and stapled.
Both beds installed. The control modules are powered by 120 VAC with battery backups. An extension cord plugged into the wall plug under the kitchen sink brings power to the passenger side wheel well for both beds.
The mattresses were custom-made to our dimensions by Comfort Custom Mattresses in Plantation, FL. They custom-make mattresses for residences, yachts, and recreational vehicles. The mattresses were expensive, but with all the work we put into building the bed, we wanted equal quality for the mattresses, and their quality was excellent. They also made the mattress pad, fitted sheets, top sheets, and pillow cases to fit.
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The extra space under the new bed allowed adding a two drawer stack. The drawers are 4 feet long.
Link: Bed Drawers
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TIP#253: Rear Shower
Another Side Project: While the original bed was out, we took the opportunity to run a pair of PEX water lines (hot and cold) from under the sink to the passenger-side rear screen post.
Why??? I don’t know… I’ve always liked the idea of a rear shower, which would offer a little more privacy than the side shower. I’m 6-6, so an outside shower has a certain appeal. Hanging a tarp or large towel between the open rear doors creates a nice little shower space when boondocking.
Our van came with a water pump override switch in the driver’s side rear screen post. I thought someday this could come in handy if I ever built a rear shower.
Hot and cold PEX tubing runs up into the screen post. It seems awful to let these cubbies go to waste when they make good little storage compartments. The compartment across the top will house our WeBoost system, spare paper towels, toilet paper, and other odds and ends. It could even store spare engine belts and hoses in there.
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A small shower faucet (4-inch pipe spacing) was turned vertically and mounted in a wooden box. The box is inserted between the wood strips and screwed in place. The shower connection runs out the right side of the box and down to the quick-connect hose fitting. 60-psi clear tubing was used between the PEX and faucet to get more flexibility for hooking up the faucet. Ear-hose clamps were used on all PEX connections with brass tees and elbows except for two automotive-type hose clamps used on the clear tubing to PEX, making it easier to disconnect inside the cubby space if it is ever necessary.
The completed shower addition came out better than expected. Shown here with a quick-connect slinky hose attached. The door is held closed with a couple brass thumb screws (#10-32) that go into threaded screw-in wood anchors.
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Tip#258: Rear Doors Privacy Area – When creating a private space between the back doors, there are numerous options. A large beach towel, a small tarp, or, in this case, a thick emergency foil blanket. The back cover can be held in place by a variety of methods. As shown here, a pair of spring clips hold the top portion in place while round magnets hold the bottom portion.
Check back occasionally, as we are testing out some new concepts.
